Rumänien per Rad entdecken
Die Donau-Route in Serbien
An der Donau entlang durch Serbien? Kein Abenteuer, aber Erlebnis.
Dank der Arbeit des GTZ-Projektes sind nun erste Radrouten an der Donau entwickelt worden. Auch Übernachtungs- und Versorgungsmöglichkeiten stehen zur Verfügung. Die ersten drei Touren können hier heruntergeladen werden.
Im folgenden ein Kontakt zu serbischen Radfreunden, den Thomas Fläschner, ADFC-Aktiver aus dem Saarland, vor seiner Reise aufgetan hat. Jovan Erakovic liefert hier wertvolle Informationen zur serbischen Donau-Route, und zu einigen weiteren Touren gibt es inzwischen auch Internet-Seiten, mit anschaulichen Karten und Höhenprofilen. Momentan zwar leider nur auf serbisch, aber das könnte sich bald ändern. Lesen Sie selbst.
To: Thomas Fläschner <t.fläschner@mx.uni-saarland.de
From: Jovan Erakovic <email@example.com Subject:
Re: Cycling through Yugoslavia
Hello Thomas, please excuse me for this delay.
On a web-site that I keep with a friend of mine there is an long story of travel through East Serbia, including the part of Danube that you are interested for. The name of the site is FreeBiking,
The address of the story is http://host.sezampro.yu/freebiking/Turoteka/1999/East_Jone/index.htm and first four parts are devoted to the part along the Danube (Veliko Gradiste - Golubac - Gornji Milanovac - Tekija - Djerdap - Kladovo - Negotin). Unfortunately the text is on Serbian only, but you may be interested to take look at the pictures. If you won't be able to determine at which places the pictures had been made, I will write to you an appropriate explanation.
Also, on the address below you will find profiles of altitude for two only significant climbs that you will have going from Belgrade to Negotin. Still, they are not very hard, as you will see. (You will also have couple of hills before Golubac and couple of them after Kladovo, but these will be easy.) http://host.sezampro.yu/freebiking/turoteka/1999/East_Jone/East_profili.htm The diagrams that may interest you are first and third (don't worry, those others that may look scarry are for some parts further inland from Danube :)
The first diagram is for the part that begins at museum of Lepenski Vir (prehistorical site, 40km after Golubac) and the second is for the part that begins at Kazan (some 25-28km from Donji Milanovac) and ends in Tekija, an village some 6km further. Here follows some translation that can help you to stroll through the story. In the story:
mapa - map
nazad - back
pocetak - start of the story (index)
dalje - further
On profiles of altitude:
profil visina - profile of altitude
visina - height
rastojanje - distance
ukupan uspon - total altitude gain (total climbing on a given distance)
Here are comments placed kilometer by kilometer - again in Serbian, sorry, but you may compare your kilometers with this table. (Now, I am really sorry that I didn't translate this in English so far because these are comments considering quality of the road, traffic, cheap places suitable for sleeping, springs, etc.) : http://host.sezampro.yu/freebiking/turoteka/1999/East_Jone/East_digest.htm But in short: except these two climbs I had mentioned, everything else from the moment you enter Serbia will be flat or almost flat, end easy for riding. The roads you are chosen are reasonably or very quiet (except Novi Sad - Belgrade) and the asphalt is generally good (far from splendid as in Germany, but I can categorize it as "one which really doesn't prevent you from enjoying scenery" :)
The part from Golubac to Donji Milanovac at some parts has sections of damaged asphalt, but it is not extremely bed (actually, it looks like this: you pass 50-100 meters of patches, then ride one or two "normal" kilometers, then again there are 50-100meters of patches, there is another kilometer of normal asphalt, etc, etc.) But then, the part from Golubac to Kladovo is generally very quiet (a car or two in five minutes) and you will enjoy it very much.
After Kladovo there is more traffic toward Negotin, but it is still pleasant and far from being crowded.
Do you know if there is a camping ground or a cheap hotel in ::: Beograd?
I know an very cheap place: my home:) Things are looking like this: I plan to go to an tour with my wife at the beginning of August. It should be either mountains of Monte Negro (which are fantastic, and I really recommend you to go there once) or Romanian mountains (Retezat national park or Transylvania). We are still not sure about the date, but I believe that we will be in Belgrade when you come (well, it would be perfect if you could come a day or two earlier, but I suppose that you can't change your schedule now?). We will know exact date in couple of next days, and I will let you know. If we'll be here, we'll be happy to have you as our güsts. In the case we decide to go to Romania, we could even arrange to ride together with you from Belgrade to Djerdap (near Kladovo) as we would then enter Romania over Djerdap dam (which is an regular border cross point). Of course, I don't know how do you prefer to travel and do you like company or not (some people prefer to ride only with friends whom they know very well - which I completely understand) and also my wife is not sure will she be able to keep up with the tempo as she has never been on an multi day tour. But the possibility does exist, at least for a day or two of ride. As about your proposed route, I would have some suggestions: Novi Sad-Beograd Please take a look at the map I am sending you with this e-mail. I suppose that you plan to use the shortest road (blue line, number 2). It is the old road to Belgrade (77km), and after Novi Sad you will pass the old town of Sremski Karlovci which is nice to see. But after that it is boring, and the road is made of concrete plates with little gaps on connections which can drive you mad (nock-nock-nock repeats for kilometers and kilometers ;) It is rather quiet. Blue line, No. 1: It is exactly an highway (on which you will be allowed to ride) and this way it is 85km to Belgrade. It is longer, but because of good asphalt you would ride faster. This road is mainly very boring. If you ride mountain bikes or don't mind going to unpaved road, there is possibility to go way 5 (red line) - from Indija to the Danube coast. There are cliffs there made from les (material between soil and rock - adolescent rock, as I like to say :) and it is very quiet, with some nice views and villages. But after St. Slankamen you would have to ride some 10km on an unpaved road (it is exactly an road made on an embankment for flood control). This way it would be 100km to Belgrade.
Route No. 3: you would go over Kac and Titel. This part is nice, you would ride below Titelski breg (or Titelberg:) which is actually the biggest plateau in Europe made of les. It is only 50-60m high, but gives an impression that you are on an mountain. After you came to road Zrenjanin-Beograd there is not much interesting to see but the road itself is ok, and not very crowded. Total: 105km.
Route No. 4 would take you over mountain of Fruska Gora - popular picnic destination for people from Novi Sad (there are also couple of mountain huts there). It is an climb of 5-6km to 500m of altitude, through nice forest. (This would increase the number of your bigger climbs in Serbia to 3). There is nice place to rest at the top, then there is fast decent to Irig, a small town on opposite side of Fruska Gora. 10km from Irig to Ruma are on rather crowded road, and after Ruma you would ride on very quiet back roads up to Belgrade. This route is the only one which can get you right into the city of Belgrade exclusively on back roads. Total: 107km. Beograd - Golubac If you don't have an special reason to stay in Dubovac (which is just an tiny village) it is much better to continue to Ram, pass to the other side of Danube, and go to near town of Veliko Gradiste (route No. 6). There is an nice lake there called Srebrno jezero (Silver lake), with beach, hotel and camp (don't expect anything near west standards in the camp, but it is quite nice place). Last 11km you will ride between the Danube and the lake, and views on Carpats and the river will be beautiful. Also, this is very quiet and narrow road with nice asphalt... everything for pleasure is there :) It is 115km from Belgrade, but an easy ride. If you sleep at Srebrno jezero, next day you can make Veliko Gradiste - Golubac - museum Lepenski Vir, and sleep there (just ask the people from museum and they will allow you to pitch your tend on the grass in front of ethno-house, or 100m further - down at the bank of the Danube). It is very nice place to sleep, and gives you the opportunity to see archeological site of Lepenski Vir (one of the oldest European cultures, 6000 years old.)
(die angesprochenen Routenbilder lagen der email leider nicht bei, sie sollten direkt bei Jovan angefordert werden)
....und was wurde aus dieser email? Steht im Reisebericht von Thomas Fläschner....
Jovan Erakovic haben wir übrigens in Belgrad auf der Donauradwegkonferenz getroffen.
Wer mehr wissen will: www.sezampro.yu/!freebiking (leider nur auf serbisch, aber man kann ihm durchaus auf englisch schreiben)
Hier noch der offizielle Ansprechpartner des europäischen Radlerverbandes ECF:
Jugo Cikling Kampanja
Bulevar Lenjina 167
11070 Beograd, Jugoslawien
Tel.: 011 144 956